What to See in South Mahe, Seychelles: Anse Royale, Baie Lazare & the South Coast Road

The south of Mahé completely won me over with its raw beauty. This is where the ocean feels closer, the waves sound louder, and the beaches are often blissfully empty. The scenery changes constantly: one moment you are standing by the clear, shallow waters of a quiet bay, the next you are facing dramatic granite boulders and an endless horizon. The road traces the very edge of the ocean, climbs into the hills, and then dips back down towards the sea again — a drive that feels like a journey in itself.

In this post, I’ll take you through everything worth seeing in the south of Mahé. We’ll explore the area around Anse Royale with its calm bays and cultural spots, follow the scenic South Coast road — one of the most beautiful drives on the island — stopping at wild beaches, hiking trails and panoramic viewpoints, and then continue to Baie Lazare, known for its secluded beaches and Creole restaurants that are perfect for a sunset dinner. You’ll find ideas for a self-guided route, practical tips for getting around the island, and suggestions for active experiences along the way — whether you prefer slow exploration or a more adventurous pace.

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The south of Mahé is often saved “for dessert” — just as we did. It was the third week of our Seychelles trip, and after exploring the north of the island as well as Praslin and La Digue, we were already a little tired from constantly moving around. To be honest, we probably uncovered only half of what the south truly has to offer.

If I were planning the trip again, I would allocate at least three full days to the southern part of the island. That gives you enough time to enjoy the main beaches at a relaxed pace, visit the Takamaka Rum Distillery, wander through the Jardin du Roi, explore the areas around Baie Lazare or Anse Royale, and beach-hop without trying to squeeze everything into one long, exhausting day.

One more important note: if you’re planning to explore the south without a car, allow significantly more time. Buses run regularly, but the intervals can be long, and some beaches and hiking trails simply aren’t accessible by public transport — you may need to arrange a transfer. If I were redesigning our itinerary, I would definitely dedicate several proper days to the south with a rental car. The experience would feel completely different — slower, deeper, and far more rewarding.

Mahé is the main island of the Seychelles and the starting point for almost every journey across the archipelago. This is where Seychelles International Airport (SEZ) is located, welcoming the vast majority of flights from Europe, the Middle East and Africa. Even if you’re planning to spend your holiday on Praslin or La Digue, your first impression of the country will most likely be Mahé — the humid tropical air as you step off the plane, the lush green mountains visible during landing, and the ocean shimmering in every shade of turquoise.

The south of Mahé is conveniently close to the airport. You can reach Anse Royale in around 20 minutes, while Baie Lazare, Anse Takamaka or Anse Forbans are roughly a 40-minute drive away. Distances are short, but roads are narrow and winding, so journeys may take a little longer than they appear on the map.

If you’re staying on Praslin, there are two ways to reach Mahé. The quickest option is a domestic flight with Air Seychelles — around 20 minutes in the air. A more budget-friendly alternative is the ferry operated by Cat Cocos. Keep in mind that the ferry terminal is located in Victoria, slightly north of the airport. If you arrive by sea, a taxi transfer to the southern districts will therefore take longer than a transfer directly from the airport.

Mahé is also a frequent stop on Indian Ocean cruise itineraries, with ships docking in Victoria’s port. If you only have one day on the island, visiting the Takamaka Rum Distillery is a convenient option, as it’s located not far from the harbour. When we visited, many cruise passengers arrived at the same time — it’s an easy and enjoyable way to sample local rum and get a brief introduction to the island’s history.

The south of Mahé is my favourite area to stay. It’s quieter than the north, with more secluded bays and fewer random day-trippers, yet there’s still enough infrastructure to make your holiday comfortable and easy. Below are carefully selected areas and accommodation options for different budgets.

Anse Bougainville. We stayed in a chalet near Anse Bougainville — a wonderfully secluded spot surrounded by nature and the sound of the ocean. Chalets Bougainville is simple but full of character, and the infinity pool overlooking the coast towards Anse Royale is a real highlight.

Anse Royale is one of the most convenient and lively areas in the south. You’ll find supermarkets, cafés, restaurants and a long beach with relatively calm water. It offers a great balance between seclusion and everyday comfort.

• Best overall: Le Nautique Luxury Beachfront Apartments — stylish beachfront apartments with an intimate atmosphere and excellent service.
• Comfort for less: Laïla, Seychelles — a modern hotel with a good restaurant and a convenient location.
• Budget-friendly: Le Relax Hotel and Restaurant — simple but pleasant, with lovely ocean views.

Anse Forbans is a peaceful corner with a beautiful beach and very few people around. It’s perfect if you’re seeking tranquillity, though the beach here is generally better for snorkelling than for relaxed swimming.

• Luxury option: DoubleTree by Hilton Seychelles – Allamanda Resort & Spa — a boutique-style resort with a high level of service.
• Cosy and affordable: Captain's Villa — charming self-catering apartments close to the beach.
• Great value right by the sea: Chalets d'Anse Forbans — simple yet very pleasant chalets with kitchens, ideal for a relaxed and independent stay.

Anse Intendance and Anse Takamaka

• Anse Intendance is one of the most dramatic beaches on the island, with a wide stretch of sand and powerful waves. Cheval Blanc Seychelles is among the most luxurious hotels on Mahé, offering impeccable service in a spectacular setting.
• A more affordable alternative near Anse Takamaka is Villa Chez Batista — a simple beachfront stay with a relaxed, local feel.

Baie Lazare is particularly scenic: several beautiful bays, long golden beaches and breathtaking sunsets over the ocean. The area combines peaceful surroundings, lush jungle-covered hills and solid infrastructure.

• For travellers seeking luxury and high-end service, there are two outstanding resorts here: Kempinski Seychelles Resort and Four Seasons Resort Seychelles. In my opinion, the latter feels more secluded thanks to its private bay setting. Although all beaches in the Seychelles are public, the sense of privacy here is stronger, and the ocean views are truly spectacular.
• For those travelling on a more moderate budget, consider La Residence in the La Mouche area — a modest but cosy stay in a quiet part of the district.
• If you’d like to stay surrounded by greenery, Hillside Retreat offers small houses tucked into the hillside, with complete peace and privacy.
• More comfortable and autonomous self-catering options include Creole Breeze Self Catering Apartments and Red Coconut Self-Catering — both well suited for longer stays or family trips, with kitchens, spacious layouts and convenient access to beaches and local cafés.

Buses. Mahé’s bus network connects the main villages and tourist areas, including Anse Royale, Baie Lazare, Anse Forbans and Anse Takamaka. Fares are very affordable — around 10–15 Seychellois rupees (approximately €0.60–0.90) per journey. To use the buses, you’ll need a transport card, which can be purchased and topped up in local shops or at the main bus station in Victoria. In the south, buses run regularly, but intervals between services can sometimes stretch to an hour or more. It’s worth planning ahead, especially if you’re aiming to reach a beach at a certain time or have booked a tour or activity.

Taxis are widely available in the south, though fares tend to be slightly higher than in the north. A short ride within Anse Royale or Baie Lazare costs around 300 rupees (about 20€). A transfer to Seychelles International Airport is roughly 600–800 rupees (35–50€), while a journey to the Cat Cocos ferry port can cost between 700 and 1,000 rupees (40–60€). If you’re planning a boat excursion departing from the port, it’s best to arrange your transfer in advance. Taxis don’t circulate as frequently in the southern districts, and without a booking you might end up waiting longer than expected. There are no meters, so always agree on the price beforehand. Fares depend on distance, vehicle type and the number of passengers.

Car rental. Hiring a car is by far the most convenient way to explore the south of Mahé. With your own vehicle, you can reach remote beaches, cafés and natural attractions at your own pace, without relying on bus timetables. A slightly more powerful car can be helpful here — roads are narrow, winding and occasionally steep — but traffic is much lighter than in the north, and parking is generally easy to find.

Private guided tours by car are another excellent way to explore Mahé, whether it’s your first visit or a return trip. You can tailor the itinerary to your interests, focusing on key sights, a particular area, or venturing off the beaten track to places most tourists never see. A local guide not only shares the history of the island but also points out hidden details and experiences that standard tours often miss, giving you a more authentic and memorable adventure.

The area around Anse Royale offers a wonderful mix of relaxed beach time, light hiking and cultural stops — all within a relatively compact part of the south coast.

Anse Royale Beach is one of the best beaches in the south for swimming, thanks to its generally calmer waters and the reef that partially protects the bay from strong waves. It’s ideal for snorkelling and works very well for families with children. The beach feels lively but never overwhelmingly crowded. There are shops nearby, a bus stop and all the basic infrastructure you might need. Right on the sand, you’ll find a great local grill and the relaxed Royal Bay Beach Club, serving fresh fish and seafood — sometimes presented in palm leaves — and cocktails in coconuts. It’s the kind of place where you arrive for a quick swim and end up staying for a long, unhurried lunch by the ocean. Just a few steps from the water stands the white-and-blue Saint Joseph Church, adding a distinctive Creole charm to the scenery — especially beautiful at sunset.

Seychelles Craft Village — Domaine de Val des Près is a small Creole “craft village” designed as a cultural centre where you can explore local traditions. On the grounds, you’ll find a reconstructed colonial planter’s house that you can step inside to see how interiors looked in past centuries. There are also workshops of local artisans — wood carving, handmade jewellery, textiles and souvenirs. In a separate enclosure, you can see giant tortoises up close, and sometimes even feed them. This is also a good place to learn more about coco de mer and see it in person.

Glacis La Réserve Trail begins near Bon Espoir and leads through lush green slopes to impressive coastal viewpoints. It’s a great way to add a bit of activity and panoramic scenery to your beach-focused days. Going with a guide is recommended, especially if you’re not familiar with local trail conditions.

Takamaka Rum Distillery. One of the most famous attractions in the south is the Takamaka Rum Distillery, located on the historic estate of La Plaine St. André. This is where the well-known Takamaka rum is produced. You can join a production tour to learn about the brand’s history, fermentation and ageing processes, followed by a tasting of several varieties. Even if you skip the guided tour, it’s worth visiting the bar or shop. The grounds are very photogenic — colonial buildings framed by palms and mountains in the background. The production tour itself is free; tastings usually cost around 150–250 SCR (prices may vary depending on the number of rums sampled). Bar prices are reasonable, and the cocktails are excellent.

Jardin du Roi Spice Garden dates back to the colonial period and grows cinnamon, vanilla, nutmeg, pepper, cocoa and a wide variety of tropical fruits. Clearly marked paths allow you to explore independently and discover how spices, fruits and vegetables grow — the same ones we often only see packaged in supermarkets back home. The garden is also home to giant tortoises, parrots and other birds. From here, you’ll enjoy beautiful panoramic views over the coast of Anse Royale. There’s a Creole restaurant with a terrace and a small shop selling local spices. Entrance is approximately 150 SCR (around €10).

Kot Man-Ya Exotic Flower Garden is a smaller, privately run botanical garden and generally less touristy than Jardin du Roi. It features exotic flowers and ornamental plants, neat walking paths and elevated viewpoints overlooking the ocean. It’s peaceful, usually free of crowds, and perfect for a short stroll or a quiet photo session surrounded by vibrant tropical flora.

The South Coast road is one of the most scenic drives on Mahé — narrow, winding, with constant ocean views and very little traffic. It stretches past wild beaches and lush green hills, offering countless reasons to stop along the way. The best way to experience it is by car, pulling over at the most beautiful spots whenever the landscape tempts you (which happens often).

Anse Parnell is a small, picturesque beach that’s better suited for photography and relaxed walks than for swimming. Tides are quite pronounced here, and the seabed can be rocky and covered with seaweed. Still, it’s a lovely place to spend an hour or two, especially if you find a hammock and simply enjoy the coastal views.

Right on the beach you’ll find Surfers Beach Restaurant, a casual oceanfront spot popular with travellers. They serve fresh fish, Creole dishes and cold drinks — an excellent lunch stop along the South Coast. The restaurant usually opens at noon.

Anse Forbans Beach. The beach itself is particularly good for snorkelling, with reefs located close to shore. Because of the tides, swimming is only possible at certain times of day, but visually it’s one of the most beautiful stretches along the route.

On Anse Forbans you’ll come across the so-called Giant Beach Rock — a massive granite boulder that has become something of an Instagram favourite. It’s not an official landmark, but the scenery is striking: turquoise water, powerful waves and dramatic rock formations create a quintessential Seychelles backdrop.

Coco Farm is a small coconut farm set within a palm grove — a simple but charming stop. You can try a fresh coconut or buy natural coconut oil, perfect as a practical souvenir from the island.

The Anse Capucins Trail leads to one of the most secluded beaches on Mahé. The walk takes around 45 minutes one way. At the end, you’re rewarded with a wild white-sand beach framed by granite rocks. There are usually very few people, but it’s important to consider weather conditions and the state of the trail before setting off.

Police Bay is one of the wildest and least developed beaches in the south of Mahé. It’s only accessible by car — there’s no public transport — which helps keep it relatively quiet. The beach is wide and sandy, with a gentle-looking shoreline that creates an impression of calm. However, swimming requires caution, as currents along the southern coast can be very strong. Police Bay is also known as a nesting site for sea turtles; during the season, you may notice tracks in the sand or protected areas marked off to safeguard the eggs. Surrounded by palm forest, rolling hills and the constant sound of waves, the atmosphere feels completely removed from civilisation.

Anse Intendance is one of the most dramatic beaches on Mahé: a long sweep of sand, powerful surf and a sense of untamed nature. Swimming is not recommended due to strong currents, but for long walks and photography, it’s easily one of the most spectacular locations on the island.

Anse Takamaka is a wide beach with waves — swimming is possible, but the water can be rough, especially during windy seasons. The beach also hosts a giant tortoise enclosure and is the starting point for the trail to Rod Sodyer Natural Pool, a hidden rock pool tucked into the cliffs.

The Rod Sodyer Natural Pool is reached via a discreet trail behind the tortoise enclosure at Anse Takamaka. The path is barely marked, disappearing into the tropical forest at points. Even with good navigation skills, it’s easy to lose your way — taking a guide or studying the route carefully beforehand is highly recommended.

La Gaulette Restaurant serves some of the best Creole cuisine in the area: fresh fish, curries, and seafood in a homely setting. Perfect for lunch during an active day. Opens at 12, sometimes slightly earlier on weekends.

Baie Lazare Beach is a wide sandy beach with relatively calm waters and stunning sunsets. Parts of the coast border hotel properties, but like all beaches in the Seychelles, it is public and freely accessible. Ideal for swimming, strolling, and relaxed evenings by the ocean.

Cap Lazare Nature Reserve combines a nature reserve with a restaurant and private grounds. Visitors come not only for the food but also for activities such as Creole cooking classes, ocean-view yoga, and beach shows. A great option if you want a more curated experience than just sunbathing

Michael Adams Art Studio is the gallery of one of Seychelles’ most renowned artists. His work reflects Creole culture, island life, and the natural environment. You can explore the gallery, admire the pieces, and meet the artist’s family who now manage the studio.

Petite Anse is a scenic cove accessible via the grounds of the Four Seasons Resort Seychelles. Despite its proximity to the luxury resort, the beach remains public. The water is often calmer, and the cove feels private thanks to the surrounding topography.

Anse Soleil is a small, charming beach with soft sand and turquoise water. Suitable for swimming in good weather, it’s considered one of the most beautiful “hidden” beaches in the area. The road to reach it is narrow and steep, but the views along the way are worth it.

If you’re staying on the south of Mahé, I wouldn’t recommend tours starting from the north — the drive takes too long and makes for a very tiring day. The south itself is incredibly beautiful, so it makes more sense to choose excursions that depart locally or include a convenient transfer.

One of my favourite options is a catamaran trip from Anse Royale along the entire southern coast. You’ll sail past wild beaches like Police Bay and Anse Intendance, stop for snorkelling, and simply enjoy a day on the ocean. The trip can end at Cap Lazare Nature Reserve, where you can walk the trails, see giant tortoises, and enjoy lunch with a sea view — a perfectly balanced and scenic day.

For a deeper dive into Seychellois culture, an evening at Cap Lazare Nature Reserve is ideal. Expect live music, traditional Moutya dance by the fire, Creole snacks, craft demonstrations, and encounters with tortoises.

For those wanting to see everything, a private island tour is a great choice: visit Victoria, the panoramic Sans Soucis road, waterfalls, the best southern beaches, and Takamaka Rum Distillery. This is perfect if your time on Mahé is short but you want to experience the highlights efficiently.

There are also guided bus tours of the south, including a Creole lunch, rum tasting at Takamaka Rum Distillery, and a stroll through Cap Lazare Nature Reserve. A simpler, worry-free option if you prefer not to plan independently.

For nature lovers seeking solitude, private hiking tours are ideal. These 5-hour excursions include hotel pick-up anywhere on Mahé, a brief safety introduction, and around three hours on your chosen trail with an English-speaking guide. Trails to consider:

• Morne Blanc Trail – panoramic views
• Copolia Trail – granite plateaus
• Trois Frères – lookout gazebo
• Anse Major – coastal track
• Anse Capucins – wild and secluded

You can also customise your route: popular options include Glacis La Réserve Trail or Rod Sodyer on the south coast.

For me, South Mahé isn’t just a “bonus” to the north, nor a fallback for a spare day. It tells its own story: wilder, quieter, and in many ways even more captivating. If the north is all about postcard views and comfort, the south is about the feeling that you’ve truly stepped into the wild tropics — where a road can suddenly lead to a hidden cove, and your day may unfold completely differently from what you planned.

I want you, when planning a Seychelles trip, not to limit yourself to the most popular beaches. Give the south at least a few days. Rent a car or book a guided route. Drive along the South Coast, explore Anse Royale, spend a day hopping between wild beaches and viewpoints, and don’t forget to visit Baie Lazare.

And yes, in this post I deliberately don’t recommend one-day trips to Praslin or La Digue — from the south of Mahé, the journey takes too long. But if you’re planning a multi-island itinerary, be sure to check out my separate guides on Praslin and La Digue, where I go into detail on logistics, beaches, and the best areas to stay.

Thank you for reading all the way to the end! If you enjoyed this guide, give it a like below — it helps me know that you’re interested in the Seychelles, and I’ll keep sharing more tips and insights about this incredible destination.