From Berlin to the Baltic: weekend in Kołobrzeg

Recently, I’d been unwell for quite some time, and I felt the need to take a short trip from Berlin to recharge, relax, and finally shake off this persistent cold. The idea of visiting Kołobrzeg came at just the right moment — this seaside resort is renowned for its numerous spa hotels and sanatoriums right on the Baltic coast. In Kołobrzeg, you can immerse yourself in the beauty of landscapes, savour delicious food, and spend your evenings unwinding in spa facilities with pools and saunas — perfect for warming up after long coastal walks. It was exactly what I needed! And with Berlin just a four-hour bus ride away, it’s an incredibly accessible getaway.

In this post, I’ll guide you through how to get to Kołobrzeg, recommend a wonderful spa hotel to stay in, highlight must-see sights and walking routes, suggest Polish culinary delights to try, and calculate how much this trip ended up costing.

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In my view, Kołobrzeg is a perfect destination for a weekend getaway from Berlin or Eastern Germany. A single day there wouldn’t make sense — it’s a four-hour journey each way, making the round trip in one day too exhausting. To truly enjoy the Baltic Sea coast, explore the town, stroll along the beach, and relax in the spas and pools, two to three days should be ideal.

Some visitors from Germany and Poland treat Kołobrzeg as a health resort, staying in local sanatoriums for a week or more for therapeutic treatments. You can find great packages for this type of retreat on websites like sanatoriums.com — a unique and often cost-effective way to spend time. However, in this post, I’ll focus on a shorter visit, sharing how to make the most of three days in Kołobrzeg — perfect for a long weekend escape.

You can travel directly from Berlin to Kołobrzeg via FlixBus. Buses depart from Berlin’s Central Bus Station (ZOB) or the stop at Berlin Alexanderplatz (Alexanderstraße 3, 10178 Berlin). We opted for a morning bus departing at 09:05 from Alexanderplatz. The journey took just 4 hours and 5 minutes, bringing us to Kołobrzeg around midday. For the return trip, there’s an evening bus leaving Kołobrzeg at 16:55, taking roughly 4 hours and 10 minutes. Tickets can be booked through the BusBud website, with prices ranging between €20 and €40 for a one-way trip. Later in this post, I’ll touch on the overall costs of this journey in more detail.

For accommodation in Kołobrzeg, I highly recommend the exceptional Radisson Resort Kołobrzeg, which impressed us in every way — a solid 10/10!

My main priority when choosing a hotel was access to pools and saunas, and the Radisson exceeded expectations. It boasts several indoor pools, two heated outdoor pools (one of which is rooftop), a wellness area with three saunas — steam, dry, and herbal — as well as a jacuzzi and even a water park with two slides inside. Impressively, all pools were operational in November. Each guest gets 70 minutes per day in the pool, sauna, and water park zone, and unlimited access to the rooftop pool offering views of the city and nearby forest. Although I considered purchasing additional time, the allocated 70 minutes was more than sufficient for us. These facilities are open daily until 9 p.m., and the rooftop pool stays open until 10 p.m. For added indulgence, the spa also offers cosmetic treatments and massages.

Another highlight was the breakfast, included in the price in most hotels in Kołobrzeg. The buffet on the ground floor offered an extensive variety of dishes and drinks, making it a true feast. One evening, we also dined at the hotel’s à la carte restaurant — the prices were higher than those in the city centre, but the convenience of not venturing out into the cold was well worth it.

The hotel does have a couple of downsides. It’s located about 35 minutes on foot from the train station (2.5 km), and it isn’t directly on the shoreline — a 12-minute walk is required to reach the beach. This wasn’t an issue for us, but it’s worth noting for those who prioritise proximity to the station and the sea.

As for the price, while it isn’t the cheapest option, discounts and my Genius status on Booking.com brought the cost down to a reasonable €130 per night for a weekend stay, including access to the spa, breakfast, and late check-out storage for our belongings. Below, I’ve outlined the full cost of our trip.

Kołobrzeg Lighthouse (Latarnia Morska w Kołobrzegu). The iconic symbol of the city, the Kołobrzeg Lighthouse, stands on the ruins of an old fort. From the top, visitors can enjoy breathtaking views of the coastline, the city, and the harbour. The lighthouse also houses a small maritime-themed museum. Note that as of November 2024, it is closed for renovations.

Kołobrzeg Port (Port w Kołobrzegu) is a lively spot where you can admire fishing boats, sea vessels, and yachts, or even embark on a cruise across the Baltic Sea. It is particularly enchanting at sunset and is a favourite location for strolls and photos.

Kołobrzeg Pier (Molo w Kołobrzegu). At around 220 metres long, this is one of Poland’s longest piers. Originally constructed in 1881 as a wooden T-shaped structure, it was destroyed during the Second World War. The current concrete pier was opened in 1971 after reconstruction.

The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Bazylika Konkatedralna Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Maryi Panny). This majestic 14th-century Gothic cathedral is renowned for its unique stained glass windows and intricately designed arches. Inside, visitors can find an ancient bell tower and beautifully crafted wooden altars, adding to the historic and spiritual atmosphere.

The Kołobrzeg Town Hall (Ratusz w Kołobrzegu), built in the 19th century, was designed by the famous architect Karl Schinkel. It houses an art gallery and cultural centre. The original medieval town hall was destroyed in 1807. Despite financial challenges, the city secured reconstruction funds through an appeal to King Frederick William III in 1826. The new building reflected the German influence of the time, as Kołobrzeg was then part of Prussia. During World War II, the structure suffered minor damage. Post-war restoration under Polish administration replaced the Prussian coat of arms with a Polish one and removed a monument to King Frederick William III from the tower.

The Lontowa Tower (Baszta Lontowa), a medieval defensive structure from the 15th century, is the sole surviving remnant of Kołobrzeg's old city walls. Built to protect the city from invaders, the tower now serves as a historical monument and a popular photography spot, reminding visitors of the city's strategic importance in coastal defence.

The Polish Arms Museum (Muzeum Oręża Polskiego) explores Poland's military history, showcasing collections of medieval weaponry and World War II military equipment. Visitors can admire tanks, aircraft, and artillery in the museum’s outdoor yard. Entry costs 30 zł (€7). A combined ticket, including access to the Brunswick Palace exhibits, costs 50 zł (€12).

Brunswick or Braunschweig Palace (Pałac Brunszwickich). Built in the 19th century as a dowry gift for a merchant’s daughter, this Neoclassical palace reflects the heritage of the noble German Brunswick family. Though originally associated with trade and maritime activity, the palace has changed hands over the years. Today, it houses a branch of the Museum of Polish Military Art. The building includes a ballroom adorned with historical paintings and armour, as well as architectural treasures like a marble bust of Pallas Athena. Entry costs 30 zł (€7).

Schliffen House (Kamienica Schliffenów). Built in 1604, Schliffen House is one of Kołobrzeg’s oldest buildings and a fine example of late Renaissance architecture. It was once home to a prominent member of the Schliffen family, who played a significant role in the region's history. Today, the building stands as a testament to the city’s rich architectural and cultural heritage.

Cold War Museum in Podborsko (Muzeum Zimnej Wojny Podborsko 3001). Located 50 km from Kołobrzeg, in the small village of Podborsko, this fascinating museum occupies a former Soviet nuclear bunker built in the 1960s to store nuclear warheads. Opened in 2016, it offers a unique glimpse into Cold War military history with guided tours of the bunkers and exhibits of military equipment from the era.

Eastern Eco-Park (Ekopark Wschodni). The Eastern Eco-Park is a protected nature reserve covering approximately 380 hectares. Visitors can explore its serene walking paths and wooden boardwalks, taking in the beauty of the Baltic coastline. The park is home to a variety of rare plant species, birds, and animals, making it a haven for nature lovers and birdwatchers. Its tranquil setting is perfect for a peaceful retreat into nature.

Salt Springs (Solanka). Kołobrzeg is renowned for its salt springs, used for centuries in balneological treatments and therapies. Rich in minerals, the saline water is praised for its healing properties, particularly for skin and respiratory conditions. One of the notable springs is conveniently located near Karczma Solna.

Kołobrzeg offers plenty of excellent spots to explore traditional Polish cuisine. Here are a few of my recommendations:

Pork Knuckle, Staropolski Żurek, and Pierogi at Pod Łabędziami (Address: Armii Krajowej 30b, 78-100 Kołobrzeg). This cosy restaurant, styled like a traditional Polish tavern, is the perfect place to experience authentic Polish flavours. Their signature dish is pork knuckle, served with sauerkraut and potatoes. The menu also features Staropolski Żurek, a tangy rye soup with boiled egg and sausage, as well as delicious pierogi stuffed with potato, cheese, and onion. This hidden gem is tucked away in a basement, so it’s easy to miss. We visited twice, enjoying not just the excellent food but also the warm atmosphere that embodies traditional Polish hospitality in the heart of Kołobrzeg. Costs: 190 zł (€44) for two pork knuckles, two beers with sirup, and four shots of Soplica; 125 zł (€29) for two Żurek soups, one plate of pierogi with sour cream, mulled wine, and mulled beer.

Zapiekanki at Smażalnia Kołobrzeska (Address: Konopnickiej 5, 78-100 Kołobrzeg). For a quick and hearty snack, try the local zapiekanki—a Polish-style open sandwich topped with melted cheese, sausage, and vegetables. This café is the only spot along the waterfront where you can enjoy zapiekanki indoors. Other places either have outdoor seating or only offer takeaway. Costs: 86 zł (€19) for two zapiekanki and two teas.

Traditional Polish Dishes at Wiejska Chata u Beaty (Address: Giełdowa 7, 78-100 Kołobrzeg). This spot is a paradise for pierogi lovers, offering a wide range of fillings, from classic potato and meat to unique options like berries or sweet cheese. They also serve a soup of the day, which changes daily. If you visit on a weekday, you can enjoy a budget-friendly set menu with soup, a main course, and compote. This is a fantastic place to immerse yourself in Polish culinary traditions without breaking the bank! Costs: 65 zł (€16) for two portions of pierogi and two compotes.

Local Beer Tasting at Colberg Brewery (Address: ul. Budowlana 4, 78-100 Kołobrzeg). Although we didn’t get a chance to visit Colberg Brewery during this trip, it’s on our list for next time! Located in an old tower, this brewery is a must for craft beer enthusiasts. Colberg Brewery specialises in locally brewed beers, with tasting sets available to sample their creations. According to their website, a tasting set costs 39 zł (€9).

In my opinion, a trip to Kołobrzeg is a reasonably budget-friendly weekend getaway. Here’s a breakdown of our expenses for a 3-day trip in 2024:

— Accommodation. The average cost of a hotel room for two is about €100 per night. Prices vary depending on the day of the week (weekends are typically more expensive than weekdays), the season, and the hotel itself. Budget apartments are available in Kołobrzeg, but additional costs may apply if you want access to spa facilities or breakfast, which isn’t included. We stayed for two nights at the Radisson Resort Kołobrzeg, paying €260 plus a tourist tax of 24.8 zł (€6). Prices were significantly higher during the weekend due to a national holiday in Poland, which brought many domestic tourists to Kołobrzeg for a long weekend. If you’re planning a visit during Polish or German national holidays, I’d recommend booking your accommodation well in advance.

— Transport. Return bus tickets for two cost us €100, which we booked via BusBud.

— Food. We spent around €100 on meals over the three days. Kołobrzeg has plenty of cafés and restaurants with a wide variety of options, from affordable spots to higher-end establishments serving local Polish cuisine.

— Souvenirs. While optional, souvenirs are a delightful addition to any trip. We picked up a couple of bottles of Soplica (a popular Polish liqueur) and a fridge magnet as keepsakes. Other potential souvenirs include Polish honey, syrup for beer, sausages, and cheeses. Along the waterfront, you’ll also find maritime-themed items like shells, stones, and amber soap. I’d recommend adding around €20 to your budget for souvenirs.

In total, our 3-day trip to Kołobrzeg cost about €500 for everything. This is significantly more affordable than a comparable trip to Germany’s Baltic Sea coast, especially when staying in hotels offering a similar level of service. What do you think? Does this seem expensive for a weekend getaway?

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