Bucharest & Brasov: long weekend in Romania

Earlier this year, I snagged some cheap Ryanair tickets to Bucharest during a sale. It had been a while since we explored new places and interesting destinations outside the Schengen Area, so we decided to seize the opportunity and take a peek at Romania for 3 days. For EU citizens, all you need upon entry is your passport; for non-EU citizens with residence permits from EU countries, you'll need your passport, residence permit, bookings, and a return ticket. Starting from March 31, 2024, Romania and Bulgaria will partially join the Schengen Zone, meaning border controls at airports will be lifted.

Before the trip, I knew very little about Romania, only hearing advertisements about easy EU citizenship acquisition for residents of post-Soviet countries. Turns out, Romania is rich in delicious food, stunning nature, friendly people, a mix of architectural styles, rich history, and the legacy of communism. Romania truly proved itself as a wonderful travel destination on this trip, one that I'll definitely recommend time and time again.

Disclaimer: The content of this post does not contain affiliate links. Any links and references are included only at my discretion to share locations we have visited and do not constitute any form of commercial or sponsored activity.

The number of days to spend in Romania mostly depends on your planned itinerary. Traveling across the entire country with stops at every castle along the way is one thing, while staying only in Bucharest and taking day trips to nearby cities is quite another. We spent 2 nights and 3 days in Romania, rented an apartment in Bucharest, and took a day trip to Brasov. This amount of time was enough for a quick introduction to the country. However, to truly explore all that Romania has to offer, I would consider returning for a week during warm weather and exploring the various regions of the country by car.

The quickest way to get to Romania is by plane. Low-cost airlines offer regular flights from many European capitals and cities to Bucharest, Cluj-Napoca, and Iași. Besides, you can reach Romania from neighboring countries by bus or train. For example, you can take a bus to Bucharest from the Bulgarian city Varna (4.5 hours) or from Sofia (7.5 hours). You can travel to Timișoara from the Hungarian capital Budapest by train in 5.5 hours, and to Cluj-Napoca from the Hungarian city Debrecen by bus in 5 hours too. Buses also run to the small city of Iași in the northeast of the country from the Moldovan capital, Chișinău, and the Ukrainian city Chernivtsi. Romania is part of the European Union but has not signed the Schengen Agreement yet, meaning there are border checkpoints between countries, so you need to account for time for border crossing.

We arrived in Bucharest from Berlin on a Ryanair flight. Currently, this is the only direct flight from the German capital, and it's the most budget-friendly option. In January, we booked a very inconvenient flight for 6:45 AM. We left home at 4 in the morning, and by 10 o'clock, we were in Bucharest's Old Town, where we had to spend some time before checking in our apartment. However, this flight allowed us to take only one day off from work and have a long weekend for our trip: we arrived on Saturday morning and returned home on Monday evening.

Bucharest is served by two airports: Aeroportul Internaţional Henri Coandă, also known as Otopeni, and Aeroportul Internaţional București Aurel Vlaicu, also known as Băneasa. Due to their similar locations and the fact that buses stop near both, they can easily be confused. Currently, most flights arrive at Otopeni, but make sure to check the arrival and departure airport.

Besides, it's advisable to plan more time for the airport before the return flight, especially for those who are not citizens of Schengen Zone countries. At the airport check-in counters, you should be prepared for additional document checks, which can take up a lot of time.

From Henri Coanda Airport to the city and back, you can take a train or a bus. Trains depart every 40 minutes towards the North Railway Station. This option is fast and comfortable, with tickets costing 12 Lei per trip (€2.4). At the main station, you can transfer to other options: metro lines M4 and M5, as well as trams and buses.

Alternatively, from the airport you can take bus 100 to reach the Union Square directly. This option takes more time but is cheaper with tickets costing 3 Lei (€0.6).

Bucharest is often confused with Budapest, the capital of neighboring Hungary, due to their similar names and the fact that both cities are capitals of neighboring countries in Eastern and Central Europe. However, despite this similarity, each of these cities has its own unique history, culture, and architecture. Budapest, for example, is famous for its thermal springs and magnificent Secession-style buildings, while Bucharest draws attention with its historical landmarks from its communist past, such as the Palace of Parliament.

Located in the southeastern part of the country, on the banks of the Dâmbovița River, Bucharest is the capital and largest city of Romania. With a population of 2 million people, it's the most populous city in the country. Bucharest serves as the cultural, economic, and political center of Romania, as well as an important transportation hub with well-developed infrastructure. The city offers a variety of entertainment options for its residents as well as for visitors.

Here are some of the main places to visit on the first day:

• Palace of Parliament (Palatul Parlamentului): Start by visiting this impressive construction, one of the largest civilian buildings in the world. A guided tour will help you learn about its history and architecture. Entrance ticket costs 60 Lei ≈ €12.
• Cathedral of the Salvation of the Nation (Catedrala Mântuirii Neamului): This majestic Orthodox cathedral will impress you with its beauty and scale. It's one of the symbols of the city.
• Constitution Square (Piața Constituției): After visiting the Palace of Parliament, you can stroll through this spacious square and the Monument of the Romanian Constitution.
• Union Boulevard (Bulevardul Unirii): This is Bucharest's main street, where you can see many interesting buildings from the communist era.
• Little Paris: Walking through this area of Bucharest will allow you to see many historic buildings, architectural masterpieces, and charming streets that give the city a special charm.
• Macca-Villacrosse Passage: This beautiful passage with arches and cozy cafes will leave a lasting impression on you. Here you can relax and enjoy the atmosphere of the old town.
• Stavropoleos Monastery: The Stavropoleos Monastery is a historic Orthodox monastery located in the heart of Bucharest. It was founded in 1724 by Greek-Catholic bishop Nicolae Mihălcescu, and its name translates as "Glorious Place of the Cross."

You can spend the second day in Bucharest visiting the following attractions:

• University Square (Piața Universității): One of the central squares of the city, located near Union Boulevard. Here you can see the University of Bucharest and architectural monuments, but the square also played a major role during the Romanian Revolution of 1989.
• Revolution Monument (Monumentul Revoluției): Located in Revolution Square (Piața Revoluției), this monument commemorates the events of the Romanian Revolution of 1989, which led to the overthrow of the communist regime. Also in this square is the building with the balcony from which Ceaușescu last addressed the nation.
• Romanian Athenaeum (Ateneul Român): A concert hall that is one of the symbols of Bucharest's cultural life.
• Cișmigiu Park (Parcul Cișmigiu): This park is one of the oldest and most beautiful parks in Bucharest. Here you can stroll along picturesque alleys, enjoy the beauty of the lake, visit monuments and sculptures, and relax in cozy squares. In winter, the lake offers ice skating experience.

I'd like to highlight the fascinating Dimitrie Gusti Village Museum in Bucharest, named after the Romanian sociologist and anthropologist Dimitrie Gusti. You can reach the museum by metro: take the M2 metro line towards Pipera and get off at Aviatorilor station. The adult entrance ticket costs 30 Lei ≈ €7. The Dimitrie Gusti Village Museum is known for showcasing the culture and traditions of Romanian villages. It's one of the largest open-air museums in Europe. The main goal of the museum is to preserve and promote Romania's folk culture. Here, you can see authentic village houses, farm buildings, mills, churches, and other objects reflecting various aspects of Romanian life and culture. Each building represents different regions of Romania and their unique features. Visitors can stroll through the museum, exploring rural architecture, traditional crafts, customs, and the way of life of Romanian peasants. It's a great place to understand the history and cultural heritage of this country.

I was absolutely delighted that we chose Brasov for a day trip from Bucharest. Brasov is a charming, small town with a picturesque Old Town surrounded by mountains. It offers a completely different experience compared to the capital.

Since the Old Town is far from the main station, we took bus 4 to the center towards Primarie. First, we had lunch at "Mămăliguță" - a small, peaceful, and authentic restaurant in the heart of the Old Town. Highly recommended for a budget-friendly taste of Romanian cuisine! Then, we rode from the lower cable car station to the top of Tâmpa Mountain. The round-trip ticket for the cable car costs 35 Lei ≈ 7€. At the top, there's a "Brasov" sign with a breathtaking view from the observation deck. In winter, it can get quite cold with a piercing wind. After descending from the mountain, we strolled through the Old Town to the Black Church, and then to the White Tower, which also offers a beautiful view of the city. Admission to the observation deck is free.

For those who want to see more mountain landscapes near Brasov, I recommend visiting the towns of Bușteni or Sinaia. We saw these towns on the way to Brasov, and the mountains there look noticeably taller, with cable cars and numerous trails open for visitors to explore.

Romanian national cuisine bears a striking resemblance to familiar Eastern European dishes, as if we've traveled to grandma's village. In Romania, you won't encounter blood-curdling names or exotic ingredients; the dishes are familiar and understandable, with some of them even being staples in post-Soviet countries that remained part of the culinary landscape after the USSR's dissolution.

Here are some dishes we tried in Romania:

• Ciorbă de fasole în pâine - Bean soup in bread
• Iachnie cu ciolan - Pork knuckle with beans
• Tocanita de miel - Stewed lamb steak with honey
• Sarmale - Cabbage rolls with meat
• Mici - Grilled stuffed meatballs
• Polenta - Cornmeal porridge
• Papanăși - Doughnuts with sweet cheese, sour cream, and jam
• Covrig with cherry jam and Nutella - Pretzel with cherry jam and Nutella
• Luca traditional, Happy Luca, Luca pikant - Ham and cheese rolls

On average, lunch for two in Bucharest and Brașov costs around 120 Lei, which is approximately 24€. The price for four rolls in a bakery is 20 Lei or 4€. Prices will be slightly higher at popular cafes like Caru’ cu Bere and Manuc’s Inn due to live music and additional staff. Additionally, Romania does not include a service charge in the bill, and a 10% tip is considered standard. Card payments are widely accepted.

Here are the restaurants and bakeries we visited:

• La Mama (Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta 11-13, Bucharest)
• Mămăliguță (Strada Republicii 20, Brașov)
• Caru‘ cu Bere (Strada Stavropoleos 5, Bucharest)
• Luca Bucharest (Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta 16, Bucharest)
• Luca Brasov (Strada Republicii 47, Brașov)

Good restaurants and bakeries based on internet reviews that I found but didn't have a chance to visit:

• Taverna Covaci (Strada Covaci 1, Bucharest)
• Manuc’s Inn (Str. Franceză 62-64, Bucharest)
• Vatra Restaurant (Strada Ion Brezoianu 19, Bucharest)
• Sergiana Brașov (Strada Mureșenilor 28, Brașov)

If you rent an apartment with a kitchen in Bucharest, all the necessary groceries will be available at the Mega Image supermarket. We bought groceries for breakfast and dinner every day, and our grocery basket cost around 10-15€. The prices were the same as in Germany.

Let's do the math! Here are the important expenses from the trip:

• Flights Berlin - Bucharest - Berlin — €68
• Apartment rental in Bucharest for 2 nights — €98
• Trip from the airport to the city — 12 Lei ≈ €2.4
• Transportation — 3 Lei * 8 = 24 Lei ≈ €4.8
• Meals in cafes — 140 Lei * 3 = 420 Lei ≈ €85
• Bakery — 20 Lei * 2 = 40 Lei ≈ €8
• Grocery shopping — 55 Lei * 2 = 110 Lei ≈ €22
• Train tickets to Brasov and back — 258 Lei ≈ €52
• Cable car tickets in Brasov — 70 Lei ≈ €14
• Souvenir — 10 Lei ≈ €2
• Bus from the city to the airport — 6 Lei ≈ €1.2

In total, it was €357.4 for 3 days for two people with prices in € and an exchange rate of 1€ = 4.97 Lei at the time of the trip. In my opinion, the total amount was reasonable, as we didn't deprive ourselves of anything. Intercity train tickets could have been cheaper, but I bought them less than a week before the trip, so I am more than satisfied. What do you think about the prices? Is it cheap for a weekend trip to Romania? Which expense category surprised you the most? Looking forward to your comments under this post! :)

I really enjoyed our weekend in Romania! The prices for flights and hotels were low, we tried new dishes, and learned a lot about Romanian history. Moreover, getting around Romania was quite easy, thanks to good transportation connections and the ability to pay by card almost everywhere.

However, there are a few things that are a bit neglected in Romania, in my opinion, and I would like to share my thoughts on this as well. Despite being one of the poorest countries in the EU, some expenses seemed excessive to me. For example, I was surprised by the prices of groceries, which were almost the same as in Germany. Besides, purchasing train or bus tickets was a bit inconvenient due to the necessity to use local websites instead of international ones, and the English localisation on them was hit or miss. Also, in many central areas, it was not easy to walk peacefully, as restaurant staff constantly tried to grab your attention and lure you inside, and in some areas, there were no proper sidewalks or pedestrian crossings at all, making walks challenging. Nevertheless, these minor shortcomings did not greatly affect our overall positive opinion of Romania.

That's all for now! I hope you enjoyed the article, thank you for reading to the end! Support the blog "so the adventures begin" by liking this post or sharing it on social media :)

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